Grandassa: The Fashion Show That Changed The Way African-American Women Were Portrayed In Beauty Magazines

Grandassa model. Museum of the City of New York via NY Post

 

It started as a fashion show to give Black models a chance to show off their beauty and sense of style. However, it sparked significant support from the Black community to change how people of African origin are portrayed.

According to the BBC, on January 28, 1962, the African Jazz-Art Society & Studios assembled a group of creatives to produce a presentation called Naturally 62. It drew a big crowd outside the Purple Manor, a nightclub in New York City’s Harlem district.

The fashion show structure deviated from how beauty was portrayed in the Western sense. The models on stage sported afro hair and donned outfits influenced by fashions from Lagos, Nigeria, Accra, Ghana, and Nairobi, Kenya.

The models had darker coloring, and their figure sizes were not typical of a slender-looking woman. It depicted the black and gorgeous African woman who was not highlighted in fashion magazines. The models were dubbed Grandassa, a name derived from Black Nationalist Carlos Cooks’ use of the phrase Grandassaland, which refers to Africa.

That was the beginning of the Black Is Beautiful Movement, which affected fashion trends from the 1960s to the 1970s. According to photographer Kwame Brathwaite, when the movement first started, it sparked a lot of controversy since it deviated from what was expected in the fashion business. Brathwaite was in charge of archiving the show’s photos. He gathered a huge collection of images from the show, many of which depicted young Black youths.

His success was due to the fact that he carried a camera with him everywhere he went and made certain that no chance was missed. He had a photo collection in his archives that spanned several years after the show.

Aside with Grandassa models, Brathwaite also photographed important Black personalities like as Bob Marley and Stevie Wonder in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. The images Brathwaite captured became a rallying point for the campaign in the mainstream media, raising awareness about the representation of Black people in the media.

The message he intended would be conveyed resonated with movement participants. This is because they wanted African-American women and men to become self-aware of their personalities and social standing. Marcus Garvey was encouraged to speak to them.

The event began with eight models representing the first Grandassa models. They were chosen from the community. Because of their involvement with the African Nationalist Pioneer Movement, the ladies were socially concerned. Some were educators, writers, and stylists who believed in Marcus Garvey’s ideas.

Kwame Brathwaite Jr., who has been preserving his father’s photographs for six years, said the message was about mental awareness of Black independence, empowerment, and a sense of togetherness. It aimed to highlight the benefits of being Black and dispel biases held by some uneducated members of society.

The Columbia Museum of Art in South Carolina has recognized Brathwaite’s work by including his collections in its gallery.

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