The Paris Fashion Week menswear shows come to an end on Sunday. Here are some of the highlights from the 40-plus runway shows over the last two days.
Last year, the watchword in high-end fashion was quiet luxury, thanks in large part to the success of the TV show “Succession”.
Whether out of remorse about rising social inequity or a love of traditional tailoring, the trend showed no signs of slowing down in Paris this week.
According to fashion website Culted, AMI is a prominent example, showcasing the “timelessness of a garment and rejecting the trend cycle altogether” with its perfectly made suits and trench coats in autumnal tones.
Hypebeast suggested that Hermes, with its long leather coats and heavy knitwear in a somber palette of blacks, greys, and browns, should be regarded as the “epitome of quiet luxury”.
Dior was also an elegant event, with designer Kim Jones presenting haute couture versions on Rudolf Nureyev’s favorite kaftans, turbans, and stage costumes during a performance dedicated to the ballet great.
And not-so-quiet
There were lots of roses, red lips and polka dots among the sparkly reworkings of tuxedos and classic suits at Balmain’s first menswear show in several years.
“It’s luxury, but it’s definitely not quiet,” designer Olivier Rousteing told fashion site WWD.
The show, which he billed as a celebration of African style, featured vibrant colors, inventive designs, rich facial jewelry, and gold bags — stylish yet blingy — and concluded with an appearance by Naomi Campbell, the queen of divas.
Rick Owens, the goth’s favorite designer, is always a standout for fashion experts. His recent presentation was more low-key than usual, taking place at his Paris atelier, but it still had the customary shock effect.
Along with the classic stilts, pagoda-like shoulders, and dilated black pupils, there was a new highlight: massive rubber boots shaped like a condom and a missile warhead, which the designer himself described as “grotesque and inhuman” in proportions.
Celeb-spotting
Celebrity endorsements have always played an important role in the fashion industry, and sporting collaborations are becoming increasingly common.
KidSuper, a New York-based label, scored big by enticing Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho to walk the catwalk.
Loewe is often a celebrity destination, and Saturday’s event featured actors Jamie Dornan and Nicholas Hoult, as well as pop star Zayn Malik in the front row.
Louis Vuitton went a step further last year, appointing hip-hop sensation Pharrell Williams as its creative director.
Bradley Cooper and rapper Playboi Carti attended his American West-themed event, which featured cowboy hats and rhinestones, while British trad-rockers Mumford and Sons performed their new song “Good People” at the after-party.
Perhaps the coolest A-listers were reserved for 80-year-old Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, who showcased cult German director Wim Wenders and “Walking Dead” star Norman Reedus on the catwalk, while football icon Zinedine Zidane watched from the front rows.